![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/ccgi.thunderbird.force9.co.uk\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/img_1363.jpg\")
<\/a>\nTools used for this wheel build<\/p>\n
- \n
- Minoura Tru-Pro 2 Truing Stand<\/li>\n
- Minours FCG-310 Dishing Tool<\/li>\n
- The green Park Tool spoke key<\/li>\n
- Park Tool tension meter<\/li>\n
- Linseed oil as threadlock<\/li>\n
- Sapim short nipple driver<\/li>\n
- HSS drill bit as reamer to remove swarf around the spoke holes in the rim<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
In use the tools did their job though but if was making a wheel building a profession I think a specialised reamer tool would have made the job easier.\u00a0 I was a little concerned that with use using a drill bit I’d might make a hole straight through the rim<\/p>\n
My spoke driver could do with filing so that the nipple on it is longer than as purchased. The aim of using one is to initially evenly tighten all the nipples before using the spoke key. \u00a0As the nipple is tightened using the slot on the rim the spine out of the top of the nipple driver will push the driver off the nipple when the spoke protrudes high enough up the nipple threads. \u00a0The problem I found with my driver with its short nipple was that if I tried to tightened up the all nipples to the point where the nipple driver slips off then, the last quarter of the nipples tighten up to the point where I can’t easily tighten them before the driver slips off them.It would be better to not to tighten the first few spokes up as much by filing the driver to make the shaft longer. \u00a0I have been tempted to get myself a screwdriver bit where the depth can be set but I haven’t quite persuaded myself it is worth it yet.<\/p>\n
I find that using a single size spoke key is much easier than using one that has multiple holes. \u00a0It’s more comfortable to use and lighter weight when you drop it on your toe.<\/p>\n
I used Park TS-1 tension meter to provide me with confidence that I have evenly tensioned the spokes. \u00a0Gross slackness I usually find with either plucking the spokes or when I come to tension a spoke that it is really easy to do up the nipple but I’ve yet to develop the skill to pick out by touch the slack spokes.?<\/span><\/p>\n
Having had to set up brake blocks for the last few years on rims that were worn, setting up new blocks on a new rim was a piece of cake in comparison.\u00a0 The new rims were flat and true so it was very easy to get the brake blocks set up just off the surface of the rim.\u00a0 I found when I applied the brakes were felt like they had really good stopping power.<\/p>\n
In use this set of wheels have been great, I did put them on the stand to check how true they still were after a couple of thousand miles on them. \u00a0A small adjustment was required but nothing major and setting up replacement brake blocks on them after some wear was a quick affair.\u00a0 I’m hoping they will last me a number of years before I wear them out.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
This followup post to my first wheelbuilding post is a bit late given that the wheels have been laced, trued, installed on my bike and tested for months and several thousand miles. Tools used for this wheel build Minoura Tru-Pro 2 Truing Stand Minours FCG-310 Dishing Tool The green Park Tool spoke key Park Tool … Continue reading Wheelbuilding \u2013 Part 2<\/span>